The Remarkable Attire and Social Roles of Better-Class Filipino Women in 1913

October 1, 2024 Bioy Ajijul

Attire: In 1913, Filipino society was heavily stratified, with clear boundaries between the wealthy elite, the working class, and rural peasantry. Clothing was a powerful social marker, and women’s fashion made distinctions immediately visible. A lady clad in a finely embroidered traje de mestiza was unmistakably of the “better class,” while simpler baro’t saya of plain cotton or camisa made from abacá identified women of more modest means.

Table of Contents

Social Status and Respectability

For upper-class women, clothing was not only about personal style but also about family reputation. The traje de mestiza embodied refinement, modesty, and morality, qualities that elevated elite women in the eyes of society. A well-dressed woman was considered a reflection of her family’s honor, wealth, and education.

Modesty and Chastity: The pañuelo (scarf) and flowing skirt symbolized a woman’s virtue, an essential trait in a patriarchal society that valued women’s morality as central to family reputation.
Wealth and Refinement: Imported fabrics such as piña and jusi were expensive, so only wealthy families could afford them. The intricate embroidery often required skilled artisans, further underscoring privilege.
Education and Modernity: Elite women were expected to behave with sophistication. Clothing was tied to education, since only women of privilege could attend exclusive schools and social gatherings where the traje de mestiza was the norm.

Gender Expectations

Women of the better class in 1913 lived within strict gender roles. Their attire reflected the expectations society placed upon them:

They were to be graceful, demure, and respectable.
Clothing emphasized passivity rather than activity — long skirts and delicate fabrics made physical labor impossible.
This dress reinforced the notion that elite women’s primary roles were as wives, mothers, and guardians of morality.

However, it is also important to note that the early 20th century was a time of change. Women were beginning to pursue education, civic work, and political awareness, which eventually led to movements for suffrage and greater participation in public life. Their traditional attire, while modest, did not prevent them from engaging in broader social roles.

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Colonial Influences on Women’s Fashion

To fully understand why elite Filipino women dressed the way they did in 1913, we must examine the colonial influences that shaped their attire.

Spanish Colonial Legacy

For over three centuries (1565–1898), Spain deeply influenced Philippine society. The Spanish colonizers imposed European standards of modesty and fashion, which blended with indigenous traditions. By the late 19th century, the traje de mestiza emerged as the fusion of Spanish formal wear and Filipino creativity.

Spanish Silhouette: Long skirts, lace, and high collars reflected Spanish ideals of propriety.
Indigenous Fabrics: Filipinos adapted these styles by using piña, abacá, and jusi, making the garments distinctively local.
Class Distinctions: Spanish-inspired attire was initially restricted to mestizas (women of mixed Spanish and Filipino ancestry) and upper-class Filipinas, while rural and working-class women wore simpler baro’t saya made of cheaper fabrics.

The traje de mestiza thus became a symbol of both colonial influence and Filipino adaptation.

The American Colonial Shift

By 1913, the Philippines had been under American rule for 15 years. The Americans brought with them new ideals of modernity, education, and practicality, which began to influence women’s fashion.

Simplicity and Comfort: American women favored simpler clothing compared to the elaborate Spanish-influenced attire. This slowly influenced Filipino upper-class women to adopt less restrictive designs.
Education for Women: The American colonial government encouraged female education, and many elite women began attending schools. This required more practical clothing, though the traje de mestiza was still reserved for formal and social events.
Birth of the Terno: By the 1920s, the traje de mestiza evolved into the terno, with the butterfly sleeves retained but the ensemble streamlined into a one-piece gown. This transformation reflected the American preference for practicality while retaining Filipino elegance.

Learn more about American-era fashion in the Philippines at the Ayala Museum Online

Class Distinctions in Dress

The term “better class” in 1913 specifically referred to women of the elite: landowners, ilustrados (educated class), and families with political or business influence. Their attire sharply contrasted with that of working women.

Elite Women:
- Wore traje de mestiza of fine fabrics like piña, embroidered with delicate patterns.
- Attended social gatherings, church events, and fiestas where elegance was required.
- Their clothing was often made-to-measure by skilled dressmakers.
Middle-Class Women:
- Wore simpler baro’t saya, often using cotton instead of expensive silk or piña.
- Their designs were less ornate but still carried Spanish-inspired elements.
Working-Class Women:
- Wore plain camisa and skirts of abacá or cotton, often without embroidery.
- Clothing was practical, durable, and suitable for farmwork, household chores, or market selling.

This division highlighted how clothing served as a visible boundary between classes. A glance at a woman’s attire in 1913 immediately revealed her social standing.

Legacy of the Traje de Mestiza

The attire of the “better-class” Filipino women in 1913 is not just a relic of the past — it remains an enduring cultural symbol. The traje de mestiza, with its elegance and refinement, has left a lasting imprint on Philippine identity and continues to be celebrated in various ways.

Symbol of National Identity

During the American colonial era, Filipino elites and nationalists sought to define what it meant to be Filipino. The traje de mestiza became more than clothing; it was a statement of cultural pride. While the Philippines was under foreign rule, wearing native fabrics and distinctly Filipino silhouettes asserted independence and heritage.

This is why the traje eventually evolved into the terno, which became the national dress for women. The butterfly sleeves, in particular, became instantly recognizable as a uniquely Filipino element. Even today, the modernized terno remains a symbol of patriotism, worn during official state events and national celebrations.

Influence on Politics and Public Life

The traje de mestiza gained renewed significance in the mid-20th century through the image of First Lady Imelda Marcos, who popularized the terno as her signature attire in the 1960s–1980s. While controversial, her promotion of the dress put Filipino women’s traditional clothing on the world stage, turning it into a powerful tool of political and cultural diplomacy.

Notable modern figures — from Miss Universe winners like Catriona Gray to artists and diplomats — continue to wear the terno in significant events, reinforcing its prestige as part of Filipino identity.

Preservation and Revival

Cultural institutions, museums, and designers are now working to preserve the legacy of the traje de mestiza:

Ayala Museum and the Museo del Intramuros showcase collections of traditional garments from the 19th and early 20th centuries, including the traje.
Modern designers such as Pitoy Moreno, Rajo Laurel, and Cary Santiago have reinterpreted the terno, keeping the tradition alive while making it suitable for contemporary fashion.
Fashion shows and cultural festivals often highlight the traje de mestiza and terno, bridging the past with the present.

By preserving these traditions, the traje is no longer confined to history books — it remains a living cultural symbol.

Modern Perspectives

While the traje de mestiza is celebrated today, modern scholars also examine it critically. Fashion is not only about beauty — it reflects the complexities of society, including issues of class, colonialism, and gender roles.

Class and Exclusivity

In 1913, this attire represented privilege and social class. Women of the elite could afford to wear delicate fabrics that made labor impossible, while ordinary women wore simpler, practical clothing. Today, scholars acknowledge that the traje highlighted inequality in Philippine society.

Colonial Influence

The traje also symbolizes the blending of cultures under colonial rule. While it has become a national dress, it originated from Spanish and European silhouettes adapted with Filipino fabrics. Some critics argue that celebrating it without acknowledging its colonial roots risks overlooking the realities of foreign domination.

Empowerment and Reclamation

On the other hand, many view the traje as an example of Filipino resilience and adaptation. Despite colonial influence, Filipinos transformed the attire into something uniquely theirs. Women wore it with pride, and over time it became a national symbol, no longer tied to colonial oppression but to Filipino identity and creativity.

Today, when modern Filipinas wear the traje or terno, it is not about class distinction but about heritage, empowerment, and cultural pride.

Conclusion

The image of Typical Filipino Women of the Better Class (1913) offers more than a glimpse into the past. It reflects an era of transition, where Filipino women balanced tradition, colonial influence, and evolving roles in society. The traje de mestiza, with its butterfly sleeves, pañuelo, and flowing skirts, symbolized elegance, modesty, and social standing in the early 20th century.

Yet beyond fashion, the attire reveals deeper truths about class divisions, colonial legacies, and gender expectations. For the elite women of 1913, this clothing was a marker of privilege, but it also became a foundation for national identity.

More than a century later, the traje continues to inspire designers, cultural advocates, and Filipinas worldwide. Whether worn in beauty pageants, state functions, or cultural festivals, it stands as a reminder of the strength, grace, and adaptability of the Filipino woman.

By studying the fashion of the past, we gain not only aesthetic appreciation but also historical insight into how culture evolves. The traje de mestiza is no longer just the dress of the “better class” — it has become a dress for the nation, symbolizing both heritage and progress.

Discover more about Filipino cultural heritage and traditional attire in our detailed guide on Filipino Traditional Clothing